8th Century temples of Jageshwar (Yogeswara), 5000 ft up in the Kumaon hills of Utter Pradesh. An area of barely 100m x 100m, one finds 150 temples big and small - exhibiting a style reminiscent of the art of the Pratihara dynasty but in all probability belonging to the late Gupta period. However, historian and erstwhile Director of the HH Maharaja Scindia Museum, Gwalior, Mr. K. P. Nautiyal convincingly argues that stylistic considerations place their origin closer to 8th Century A. D. as it is as early as this that temple construction evolved from the use of wood as seen in the Brahmaur and Chatrarhi temples of Chamba, HP - to the use of stone exhibiting three variations in roof architecture: the Valabhi, the Phamsana and the Latina. Of these, the Valabhi style is found in the earliest of the Jageshwar shrines along with the Phamsana Surmounted by an amalika. The Lakulisa and Nataraja temples - accredited by some accounts (725-750 A.D.), at first glance appear very similar.

Standing around 30 ft high, their roofs are constructed in the Phamsana style. The doorways each with three sakhas - and lintel are ornately carved: the Lakulisa with rosettes, scrolls and a variety of srivriksha with figurines of Mahakala and Nandi al their base; the Nataraja has scrolls, diamonds and Shiva"s cobras. These temples can be recognized by their attenuated shikharas with a marked curvilinear element, fluted amalakas, and roofs built of horizontal stone slabs.

The garbha-grihas and mandapas l2 are square, the porticos shallow pillared. Set in a small bowl alongside a gurgling brook girdled by tall deodar, Jageshwar is an insight into the history, culture and art of a beautiful land and its gentle people.